Friday, September 08, 2006
WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD?
To get to the beach of course!
I've just returned from a quick Labor Day trip to Tortola in the British Virgin Islands where I spent my time lollygagging on the beach with a roving posse of wild chickens.
Months ago I got a great deal with a handful of frequent flier miles, and scored an airfare from Boston to Tortola for the rich sum of $19.30.
Because the islands are currently in their low season/hurricane season, facilities are limited and most hotels and restaurants are closed for the summer. I was lucky enough to be the only guest of a lovely little hotel on the beach, which I also had to myself, except for the aforementioned chooks. Each day random combinations of 3 roosters and 4 hens would drop from the trees overhanging the beach where they spent their evenings, and make their way about 20 meters to a sea grape tree where they would forage in the sand for any of the fruit that may have fallen. This parade continued perhaps half a dozen times a day, but included a quick stop to give me a look over, or, as happened on a couple of occasions, a lucky poke through my beach bag to score a sandwich.
You see initially, I made the mistake of assuming a lunch snack in a paper bag would be safe from marauding bird life while I ran back to my room to retrieve a cold beer. My bad. I've been robbed and cajoled a few times in my travels, but this was the first time I returned to find a rooster on my beach towel, busted in the act of burying his head inside my purse and reappearing with a freshly baked whole wheat roll. And the really disturbing part is he looked at me just like he knew he was busted too.
My trip away was my first real break after returning to work after almost 5 years of roaming the world. I've been here in Maine for about 7 months now, and I really enjoyed the return to a tropical climate. Sunning on the beach, with a cold beer, looking over my toes to the water isn't a bad way to regroup.
My prelude to Chook Beach was a sailing victory on my first non-stop overnight sailing race. After a solid 17 1/2 hours of high winds, gusting at times up to 20 knots, we had one sweet ride from Portland along the Maine coast to Monhegan Island and back home again. A total of about 119 miles. Our rotating 4 hours shifts were abandoned after the first watch due to weather conditions, so with "all hands on deck at all times", I spent a solid 30 hours without sleep but was rewarded with a victory, the first for our skipper, for Beausoleil and me.
The first hour of the race was a southbound leg that had us against quiet ferocious conditions. The wind gusts were so high that spinnakers were exploding and shredding like party balloons, and boats were "broaching" like spinning tops as each gust traveled through the gaggle of boats.
Let me pause here to explain what "broaching" means.
All have you have seen sail boats "heeling" in high winds - the winds become strong and the boat tilts to it's side, almost like it's about to lay over. "Broaching" is when the boat tilts SO far over, the boom hits the water which causes the boat to stop and "spin" in about a 90 degree turn.
Now, I've been a real trooper with this sailing gig. High waters, pissing down rain, but my first time experiencing this sailing phenomena coincides with the first time I ever had that "this is it - the moment I die" feeling.
Seriously, the very moment I saw this happen, I turned from the rail I was clinging on to, looked behind me and saw water right below me. I thought that this was the moment I was going to lose my life, and it was going to be in a sailing accident.
Fortunately, in my enthusiasm for the sport, I did my homework from the beginning and learned some of the core physics of sailing such as the size and weight of the keel underwater, and the relationship to the mast and sails above the boat, and knew that is was impossible for the boat to capsize. Although I was immediately able to return to more rational thoughts, I did some 2 hours solid of white knuckling on the rails. Of course this to me was pure adrenaline induced joy.
Because the race has a long tradition and is a well-known event in the sailing community, we had media coverage. There are a series of photos of our boat here, but this image in particular captures the EXACT moment I turned and saw my life flash BEHIND me. You can see me on the rail, second from the left in a green t-shirt. A moment I will never forget.
http://207.5.197.148/%7Ewave16/2006/mon06/source/mon06_090.htm
As the day progressed we cruised with a few dozen pods of dolphins, witnessed a beautiful sunset, and when night fell, a full moon and a sky full of meteor showers.
We enjoyed a truly gourmet dinner prepared by our grinder who on overnight races double as our chef. We had a delicious meal of salad and veggie lasagna, then later at about 2am, coffee and brownies baked in the oven. This was my favorite part - because we were sailing so fast, the boat was consistently on a slope. That resulted in brownies that were about 2 inches high, moist and chewy on one side, and about a 1/2 an inch and crisp on the other!
Here's the article from the paper:
http://pressherald.mainetoday.com/sports/local/stories/060814boats.shtml
As the summer comes to a screeching halt, there's only one regatta left to race this weekend. I had been worrying about my withdrawal from the water until yesterday when I signed up for "frostbiting". That's a season of racing ynglings (22 foot boats, 3-4 crew) from October to December in the North East. Think of the Postie - through rain, hail, snow and sleet.
For true sailors indeed.
But before long it will be time to start planning my next Turbo Tubing trip......
Love to you all,
Leanne.
Tuesday, August 22, 2006
Mid summer greetings friends!
An update is long overdue, but if you were here, you would understand why I've been too busy outside enjoying a Maine summer to be sitting down at a computer sending emails.
After a mild winter, and a wet spring, summer is maxing out here. The Old Port is chock full of tourists, so like the rest of the locals, I've left them to their shopping, lobster rolls and ferry rides around Casco Bay, and I've been immersed in all the
activities that make this state so popular.
I have become addicted to competitive sailing and spend every Saturday racing up and down the coast participating in the GMORA (Gulf of Maine Ocean Racing Association) 2006 racing season.
But more about that later....
When I am in Portland I've been enjoying organic Maine produce at the two farmer's markets held here each week - on Wednesdays right now I can find lettuce, cucumbers, squash, herbs, potatoes, beets, carrots, flowers, pot plants, eggs, and homemade jam in Monument Square downtown, surrounded by street performers and other artists. On Saturdays the same
market is in the park around the lake, which in winter is frozen and becomes a skating rink.
Weeknights I have the option of listening to live concerts in downtown and also in the park, or movies shown in an open air theater. The first Friday of each month is Friday Night Art Walk where a plethora of galleries, studios, and museums are open until late and offer special exhibits and entertainment.
Summer also brings lots of fairs and festivals. Early last month my street became one giant block party as the venue of the annual Greek Festival. I joined Steve and Glenn in their front yard, along with some other guests, for a candlelight Middle Eastern feast while we watched the singing and dancing directly across the road.
The three of us have also enjoyed exploring some hidden international hole-in-the-wall cafes around town and to date have uncovered Eritrean, El Salvadorian and Persian food.
I must say, My Two Dads are such a blessing! I have been one lucky duck to have met such wonderful, loving people the minute I arrived here in Portland. And they're both so talented too; I have enjoyed hearing Glenn sing in his A Cappela choir, and Steve perform Broadway numbers in the Gays' Men Chorus. Last week I attended a fundraiser they held at their home for
Governor Baldacci's reelection campaign and tonight I'll be over there to join them and Happy, their collie dog-child for dinner.
We have become the best girlfriends ever!
While I've been enjoying myself here, I've also had some guests pass through Portland this summer.
Chuck Walker, my long time mate from New York City, participates in a bike ride called "Trek Across Maine" each year, a three day ride from the west of the state up to the coast. He and his three team mates dropped in to my office to say hi on the way from NYC, and again on the way home, stiff and sore, for a shower and bite to eat.
This past weekend I got an email out of the blue from a former coworker from my Insync days, Susanne Hoffman, who was on a brief weekend visit with her in laws. Sadly, I was away on an overnight race and missed seeing her and Craig and meeting their two kids.
OK, now to my latest passion - sailing.
As you remember from my last email, I had just signed up to learn to sail. My first day out was over Memorial Day and I turned up, showed a lot of initiative and scored a spot working the Fore Deck, one of the most difficult and highly coveted positions on the boat. The Fore Deck crew is responsible for the sails - putting them up and down, flying the spinnaker and tacking the sails at the Skipper's call. The weather was glorious and my ship mates lots of fun. Six hours out sailing in Casco Bay! Glorious!
The following weekend however, was a COMPLETELY different story.......
Instead of tranquil waters and warm sunshine, it was pissing down rain for the whole five hours we were out, no let up at all. We had 8-10 foot waves, the boat was heeling over so high the rails were touching the water and we were hanging over the side trying to counterbalance the weight. The rain was SO hard it was hurting my face. I had NO wet weather gear, (I thought
I did till I got out there anyway). I had huge water crashing over me, I was so cold and wet I was shaking, then the skipper would yell "tack" and because I'm on the fore, I had to get up and tack the sail over. It was INSANE! The boat is heeling at almost 180 degrees, I'm trying to brace myself so I won't go over, then I've got to get a huge Genoa sail from the port to the
starboard side. What a wild ride!
Since those two introductory sails, we have raced every weekend. Each of the Yacht Clubs in GMORA hold a regatta each weekend. It might be a local round the buoy race, or an out of town two day event. This past weekend we did a two day sail competing in the Camden Castine Race. I left at 5am Saturday for the two hour drive up the coast to Camden to get on the boat and returned home at 9.30 Sunday evening. We raced from Camden over to Castine, a small town down on one of Maine's peninsulas, where we stayed overnight. Castine is home to the Maine Maritime Academy, a handful of shops and a few Bed and Breakfasts. We rafted up with another boat at the dock (where all the yachts moored for the night) and had a great dinner, lots of beer and then went to a party with the kids from the Academy. I slept on the sails on deck (we need 12 crew to race the boat and have 12 berths below to accommodate us, but who wouldn't want to sleep under the stars on the water?)
We had an early breakfast and raced a course back to Camden.
I have become addicted to this! Each week working on the fore in all kinds of conditions I get beat up, almost go overboard and end up black and blue from being thrown up against the rails - but each week I go back for more. When you're out on the water, sailing along with a pod of whales (like we were two weekends ago), or passing seals riding the swell (like we do
every weekend) it's hard not to love it.
I've become very competitive, reading sailing manuals and learning the physics of wind and water currents and their bearing on the speed and direction of the boat. I've even begun meeting other fore deck crews with the intention of getting on one of the faster more competitive boats for next season. I'm also looking at what it might take to study at the Maritime Academy.
Who knows, one day I might get a charter job on a boat like this one that raced with us this weekend.
www.tooelusive.com
On Sunday I met the owner (heir to the IBM fortune) and got a tour of her while she's up here racing for
the season! Su-weet!
This coming weekend is my first weekend off as we aren't racing, but the following weekend is an all night-er. First gun is 11.30 am, we'll race from Portland up to Monhegan Island and back to Portland, about a 20 hour non stop race where we will take 4 hour rotating shifts on deck (don't worry, I'll be attached to the railing during the night.) It's going to be nuts! I can't imagine how thrilling it will be if we hit bad weather during the night.
Okay, that's it for now. Here are a couple of pictures - the crew on Saturday night and a few of the boats and area I was in.
The young guy standing behind me, Patrick, and I are on the Fore with John (bald guy on the left of me) the Bow-man we work under.
Let me know when you're coming to visit!
Leanne.
An update is long overdue, but if you were here, you would understand why I've been too busy outside enjoying a Maine summer to be sitting down at a computer sending emails.
After a mild winter, and a wet spring, summer is maxing out here. The Old Port is chock full of tourists, so like the rest of the locals, I've left them to their shopping, lobster rolls and ferry rides around Casco Bay, and I've been immersed in all the
activities that make this state so popular.
I have become addicted to competitive sailing and spend every Saturday racing up and down the coast participating in the GMORA (Gulf of Maine Ocean Racing Association) 2006 racing season.
But more about that later....
When I am in Portland I've been enjoying organic Maine produce at the two farmer's markets held here each week - on Wednesdays right now I can find lettuce, cucumbers, squash, herbs, potatoes, beets, carrots, flowers, pot plants, eggs, and homemade jam in Monument Square downtown, surrounded by street performers and other artists. On Saturdays the same
market is in the park around the lake, which in winter is frozen and becomes a skating rink.
Weeknights I have the option of listening to live concerts in downtown and also in the park, or movies shown in an open air theater. The first Friday of each month is Friday Night Art Walk where a plethora of galleries, studios, and museums are open until late and offer special exhibits and entertainment.
Summer also brings lots of fairs and festivals. Early last month my street became one giant block party as the venue of the annual Greek Festival. I joined Steve and Glenn in their front yard, along with some other guests, for a candlelight Middle Eastern feast while we watched the singing and dancing directly across the road.
The three of us have also enjoyed exploring some hidden international hole-in-the-wall cafes around town and to date have uncovered Eritrean, El Salvadorian and Persian food.
I must say, My Two Dads are such a blessing! I have been one lucky duck to have met such wonderful, loving people the minute I arrived here in Portland. And they're both so talented too; I have enjoyed hearing Glenn sing in his A Cappela choir, and Steve perform Broadway numbers in the Gays' Men Chorus. Last week I attended a fundraiser they held at their home for
Governor Baldacci's reelection campaign and tonight I'll be over there to join them and Happy, their collie dog-child for dinner.
We have become the best girlfriends ever!
While I've been enjoying myself here, I've also had some guests pass through Portland this summer.
Chuck Walker, my long time mate from New York City, participates in a bike ride called "Trek Across Maine" each year, a three day ride from the west of the state up to the coast. He and his three team mates dropped in to my office to say hi on the way from NYC, and again on the way home, stiff and sore, for a shower and bite to eat.
This past weekend I got an email out of the blue from a former coworker from my Insync days, Susanne Hoffman, who was on a brief weekend visit with her in laws. Sadly, I was away on an overnight race and missed seeing her and Craig and meeting their two kids.
OK, now to my latest passion - sailing.
As you remember from my last email, I had just signed up to learn to sail. My first day out was over Memorial Day and I turned up, showed a lot of initiative and scored a spot working the Fore Deck, one of the most difficult and highly coveted positions on the boat. The Fore Deck crew is responsible for the sails - putting them up and down, flying the spinnaker and tacking the sails at the Skipper's call. The weather was glorious and my ship mates lots of fun. Six hours out sailing in Casco Bay! Glorious!
The following weekend however, was a COMPLETELY different story.......
Instead of tranquil waters and warm sunshine, it was pissing down rain for the whole five hours we were out, no let up at all. We had 8-10 foot waves, the boat was heeling over so high the rails were touching the water and we were hanging over the side trying to counterbalance the weight. The rain was SO hard it was hurting my face. I had NO wet weather gear, (I thought
I did till I got out there anyway). I had huge water crashing over me, I was so cold and wet I was shaking, then the skipper would yell "tack" and because I'm on the fore, I had to get up and tack the sail over. It was INSANE! The boat is heeling at almost 180 degrees, I'm trying to brace myself so I won't go over, then I've got to get a huge Genoa sail from the port to the
starboard side. What a wild ride!
Since those two introductory sails, we have raced every weekend. Each of the Yacht Clubs in GMORA hold a regatta each weekend. It might be a local round the buoy race, or an out of town two day event. This past weekend we did a two day sail competing in the Camden Castine Race. I left at 5am Saturday for the two hour drive up the coast to Camden to get on the boat and returned home at 9.30 Sunday evening. We raced from Camden over to Castine, a small town down on one of Maine's peninsulas, where we stayed overnight. Castine is home to the Maine Maritime Academy, a handful of shops and a few Bed and Breakfasts. We rafted up with another boat at the dock (where all the yachts moored for the night) and had a great dinner, lots of beer and then went to a party with the kids from the Academy. I slept on the sails on deck (we need 12 crew to race the boat and have 12 berths below to accommodate us, but who wouldn't want to sleep under the stars on the water?)
We had an early breakfast and raced a course back to Camden.
I have become addicted to this! Each week working on the fore in all kinds of conditions I get beat up, almost go overboard and end up black and blue from being thrown up against the rails - but each week I go back for more. When you're out on the water, sailing along with a pod of whales (like we were two weekends ago), or passing seals riding the swell (like we do
every weekend) it's hard not to love it.
I've become very competitive, reading sailing manuals and learning the physics of wind and water currents and their bearing on the speed and direction of the boat. I've even begun meeting other fore deck crews with the intention of getting on one of the faster more competitive boats for next season. I'm also looking at what it might take to study at the Maritime Academy.
Who knows, one day I might get a charter job on a boat like this one that raced with us this weekend.
www.tooelusive.com
On Sunday I met the owner (heir to the IBM fortune) and got a tour of her while she's up here racing for
the season! Su-weet!
This coming weekend is my first weekend off as we aren't racing, but the following weekend is an all night-er. First gun is 11.30 am, we'll race from Portland up to Monhegan Island and back to Portland, about a 20 hour non stop race where we will take 4 hour rotating shifts on deck (don't worry, I'll be attached to the railing during the night.) It's going to be nuts! I can't imagine how thrilling it will be if we hit bad weather during the night.
Okay, that's it for now. Here are a couple of pictures - the crew on Saturday night and a few of the boats and area I was in.
The young guy standing behind me, Patrick, and I are on the Fore with John (bald guy on the left of me) the Bow-man we work under.
Let me know when you're coming to visit!
Leanne.
